Nowadays, everyone is talking about lowering our footprint on the earth. Many are pointing out the limited resources we have, including fresh water. With droughts and uncertainty, a lot of gardeners are changing their lifestyles to match. What about your gardening techniques? Water is one of the most important resources for your garden and is becoming increasingly regulated by cities and counties nationally as it becomes scarce due to droughts.

Luckily, there are many techniques that can be used to lower the amount of water used in your garden without reducing the yields you expect or the beauty you want. Here are some of those techniques to help you reduce your water usage in your garden.

Use Mulch

If you haven’t already been mulching your plants, do so now. Mulch helps to limit the amount of water that evaporates from the soil and organic mulches like clippings or wood chips ad organic matter and nutrients to the soil, giving an extra bonus to your plants. Plastic mulches can limit evaporation, but are not usually tillable, so consider the options besides the price tag. All mulches limit infiltration soil loss from erosion as well, so mulching is a great boon to the gardener.

Distribute Water Wisely

Most gardeners know that sprinklers and sprayers are not very efficient at distributing water the garden, though they enjoy widespread use. They are easy and cover large areas, though. Sprayed water, however, lands mostly on foliage (which does no good) while much of it evaporates into the air before ever even hitting the ground. Soaking techniques and tools, like soaker hoses, flood irrigation, drip systems, and similar methods, are much more efficient at distributing water in quantity. You’ll find that your overall water usage can be cut by 25% or more if you use these methods rather than sprinklers.

Water That Which Needs It Most

Focus your watering on plants that need it the most, such as newly-planted or transplanted seeds and plants. Plants with limited root systems or high humidity requirements should also get attention first. Most well-established plants (especially natives) will be able to withstand a drought. They still need water, of course, but you may be able to cut back on how much without seriously affecting their yield or beauty.

Water At The Right Time

Watering in the early morning or late evening cuts out much of the loss from evaporation as the heat of the day is not there to facilitate it. Early morning is best, as the night coolness still clings to the air. Morning watering also helps keep plants cool throughout the day.

Supplement Your Water

Collecting water from downspouts during rains is a great way to supplement the water you’re using in the garden. Plus it’s free! If you use chemical-free water to clean buckets, garden pots, wash your car , wash your dishes, etc., you can save the runoff to give it to your garden. When washing the car, position it so that most of the runoff water will go into your garden or onto your lawn. This way you do not have to buy a self watering planter for your garden.

These are a few ways you can deal with drought and help save precious freshwater sources while still tending and caring for your garden. Happy gardening!

The idea of having to maintain your beautiful landscape can be a frightening one as it can be very time consuming and labor intensive. If you are of the opinion that a garden with high maintenance needs is not for you, then you should consider planning one that has low maintenance requirements. Here are a few things to keep in mind when you are constructing a low maintenance landscape.

Tips for a Low Maintenance Landscaping Designs

Use native plants in your design in place of “exotics”.

Because native plants have already adapted themselves to their surroundings, they are easier to maintain. They are generally easier to obtain and are less expensive than exotics.

Make use of snowmelt systems

If you live in an area that has heavy snowfalls, it is a wise idea to invest in a “snowmelt” system. Basically, this is a series of hot water pipes that melt the snow, thus saving you hours of backbreaking work.

Have automatic irrigation systems

An irrigation system set on a timer will water your plants without you having to stand with a hose for hours. Set up the system when you are constructing the landscape and it will save you a lot of time.

These automatic systems can be purchased in many places and are relatively inexpensive.

Use Mulch

Using both organic (that which decomposes) and inorganic mulch will assist in the prevention of soil erosion and makes an excellent weed suppressant. Mulch also assists in water conservation as it reduces evaporation and reduces soil temperatures around the roots of plants.

Plant arrangement

Choosing to use larger groups of similar plants can reduce maintenance levels. If you have similar plants grouped together it is easier to control the watering, fertilizing and pest reduction as they have similar needs. Haphazard plantings of single varieties can make your job more difficult. It is also wise to create your beds so that they are narrow enough to allow easy access.

Regardless of all of these points, how you plant your specimens is vital. If they are not correctly planted according to individual plant requirements, they will either not grow to their full potential or may even die. This adds to your maintenance.

Ensure Simplicity

A simple “minimalist” landscape is much easier to look after and if planned correctly can actually look far more attractive than a complex design. Rule number one is to ensure that you do not “over-plant”; you should allow for space for the plants to grow freely. This will ensure that you don’t have to prune or trim as often. Keep the variety of plants to a minimum as well.

Reduce size

Large, expansive gardens are fantastic to view but take a huge amount of maintenance to keep up that look. Home landscaping is best done on a smaller scale. Even without the use of rock speaker system, a smaller variety of plants in a small garden can be welcoming. If you have a large yard, reserve a small part of it closer to the house for landscaping coupled with an wireless speaker system and allow the rest to naturalize.

Following these simple tips will save you lots of time and money.

Each of us should do our part to save water. Water is a necessary element in the sustenance of life. It becomes a strong issue in areas where there isn’t enough clean and sanitary water for people to drink. You have to admit we take a lot for granted

As the weather changes from one season to the next water requirements for plants, lawns, trees, and shrubs change also. They don’t take in as much water as the temperatures cool with the shorter days. Of course the same goes with the change from winter to spring to summer as the temperature rises with longer days more water is required. It’s not only the temperature but also the water requirements decrease as plants go into dormancy.

Take a look around you as you drive through your neighborhood, and you’ll see how your neighbors do their part to conserve water. Some do real well, others never change their sprinkler timer from the time it was installed.

As water requirements are less for plant material and lawns the sprinter timer should be adjusted accordingly. This will help to save a significant amount of water.

With good soil preparation around your plants and regulating the amount of water you apply, your plants can be trained to put out more roots this will encourage them to flourish with less water.

Cities around the country that are located in areas that don’t get enough water for your plants to live without irrigation enforce water restrictions to conserve this necessary resource.

Do some research to find out when your water days are. Most of the time your scheduled watering days are determined by the last number on your address.

Adjust your sprinkler timer for the correct watering days for your side of the street. Make adjustments to the amount of time each zone is allowed to water depending on the type of plant material you are applying water to.

Turn on each zone and inspect your sprinklers to make sure you don’t have any broken heads or plugged nozzles and that the water spray is adjusted correctly. Check each area to make sure it is not too wet or too dry and make the necessary adjustments to correct any problems.

As you begin repairing your lawn, and planting new shrubs in the fall hand water them so you don’t have to run the complete zones.

To produce a healthy, productive garden you’ll need loamy soil. It should crumble easily in your hands, not too much clay aspect, not too much sandy quality. Clay-like soil retains too much moisture and doesn’t allow proper drainage. Sandy soil doesn’t provide adequate support and drains too well, as well as lacking needed nutrients.

To produce that kind of soil, two obvious things are needed: good fertilizer and the right amount of water.

Know what type of soil you’re starting with before you add anything. Testing kits are inexpensive and can tell you what kind of soil you have. pH levels and nutrient levels will be tested. Most vegetables are best suited in a pH range of 6.0-6.5, but some favor acidic soils and other prefer alkaline earth.

To adjust the pH you can add sulfur or lime. Those nutrients can be supplied by adding fertilizer. You should adjust the soil pH several months before planting. In some locations you will do this after harvest time, before the first snowfall.

If you’ve created a compost pile, add the material to the topsoil about three weeks before planting. That will give it time to naturally leach the needed nutrients into the soil before you plant. You can speed up the process somewhat by tilling it into the top few inches. Otherwise, you can add organic or artificial fertilizer (such as NPK 8-8-8) to enrich your soil. Add that right before planting. About 20 pounds per thousand square feet is enough in most cases.

Vegetables love lots of water, unlike most herbs and some other plants, although most are not suited to sit continuously in a pool of water, which leads to root rot. Continuously moist soil, however, will aid your plants growing and support themselves.

Water is essential to your plants. It is used to transport nutrients throughout the plant, participate in photosynthesis, and give rigidity and firmness to cell structures. For most gardens, one inch of water per week is sufficient (about 65 gallons per 100 square feet). This may cary slightly depending on your soil type. You may need to supplement if natural rain activity doesn’t supply that amount from April through September.

Fortunately, it’s easy to supply.

If applied in moderate temperatures, watering vegetable plants from above doesn’t wilt them, unlike flowering plants. There is still common considerations to apply. Allow leaves and topsoil to dry before nighttime temperatures settle in by watering early in the day. This is one way to prevent fungus. Building an inexpensive, simple drip irrigation system is another way to accomplish the same goal. Rubber tubing that leaches water should be placed near the plant in order to supply water to the roots.

Only occasional watering is then needed to keep leaves clean and their pores open. But don’t water when it’s very hot. Leaves evaporate moisture when their pores open. Watering when it is very hot will defeat the purpose of watering, as your plant will evaporate more moisture than you supplied. Also, Water droplets can act like small magnifying glasses and cause burns.

Drip irrigation has made a rapid progression from agriculture to commercial landscape gardens. Initially, drip irrigation systems were created in countries which had an extremely dry climate and limited water supply. The system works by supplying water directly to the roots of the plants with the help of sprinklers or emitters. These are interconnected by a network of pipes that are suspended over the ground surface. The result is that there is minimum wastage of water due to evaporation. Drip systems are also easy to install and any handy man can create a drip system in the garden.

On the other hand, if your garden has a large surface area that needs to be watered, then you might just consider using a sprinkler system. Sprinklers and micro sprinklers spray water over a large area where usage of drip systems is not feasible. They are equally efficient when delivering water without too much wastage.

Xeriscape is a widely popular gardening method from Colorado which focuses on creating a lush garden while minimizing water usage. The system was created to give everyone the lush green garden even in the dry arid climate of Colorado. The system comprises of seven gardening principles that will give you the green landscape that you always wanted. It is ideal in areas where water supply is limited. The first part of any Xeriscape garden is effective planning. The turf or grass is limited to very few parts of the garden. The plants which are used in the garden are also low water plants. It also uses the best irrigation methods which combines sprinklers, drip emitters, irrigation timers and garden hoses.

Organic gardening methods can also be employed to enhance the look of your garden. If you are new to the concept of organic gardening, then you can get comprehensive information about the techniques on the internet.

Author: Jonathan Goodman

Choosing the right location.

Roses require exposure to at least six hours of direct sunlight in hot Mediterranean climates, mostly in the morning. In regions with less light intensity, they probably need more. Roses should not be planted under trees, not only because of the shade, but also because they compete poorly with the trees’ roots. For the same reason, they should not be planted too close to shrubs either.

While roses can thrive in hot, dry climates, they suffer in warm, humid ones. Gardeners can unintentionally create excessive humidity, by planting the bushes where there is insufficient movement of air, or by placing the plants too close to each other. Whatever the cause, humid conditions are ideal breeding grounds for fungi that plague roses, such as powdery mildew. It is important therefore to know the width of the plants’ growth, and to fix the distance between the roses, accordingly. Do not be tempted to over-plant.

Soil conditions

To grow well and flower profusely, roses need highly porous soil. If the earth is clumpy and hard, it must be broken up and improved with massive quantities of compost. In either very heavy, clay soil, or alternatively, extremely light, sandy soil, some 60 liters per square meter, is by no means excessive. In medium, loamy soils on the other hand, about 20 liters should suffice.

While many wild species of rose are of Mediterranean origin and even harsher Central Asian climates, the cultivated varieties that make up the bulk of garden specimens are not especially drought resistant. In areas without summer rain, it is essential to supply them with regular water. Unquestionably, drip irrigation is preferable to overhead sprinklers, because not only do the latter waste more water, but they add 100% humidity into the bargain! Never forget that an improper watering regime is liable to deplete the soil of oxygen; a condition to which roses are particularly sensitive.

Mulching the soil

Covering the soil with an organic mulch helps to reduce water loss, retard weeds, and perhaps most crucially in hot climates, moderate the temperature at the topsoil level. In my view, mulching with an aesthetically pleasing material like wood chippings is preferable, design wise, to under planting the rose bushes with flowers. While in cultural terms, infinitely improved growing conditions are attained, without the roses having to contend with any competition from rival plants.

About the Author

My name is Jonathan Ya’akobi. I’ve been gardening in a professional capacity since 1984. I am the former head gardener of the Jerusalem Botanical Garden, but now concentrate on building gardens for private home owners. I also teach horticulture to students on training courses. I’d love to help you get the very best from your garden, so you’re welcome to visit me on http://www.dryclimategardening.com or contact me at jonathan@dryclimategardening.com

Spray irrigation has been the traditional way to water domestic and municipal gardens and lawns. Spray irrigations covers a broad area by a fixed or moving sprinkler device. There is a lot of runoff and evaporation when using this irrigation system. You not only waste water but you waste money too. If you choose to use mini-sprinklers and fine mist spray devices on your spray irrigation system you are creating a moist environment around a large area. Spray irrigations are needed for some germinating plants, are easier to service and when it is used during the hottest part of the day it can have a cooling effect on some plants. They can also promote weed growth, and are exposed to the elements of the weather.

Drip irrigation is by far the more efficient method of irrigating lawns and gardens. Drip irrigation delivers water slowly and directly to the roots of the plants and lawns by using a hose that is full of tiny holes. Because the water is delivered directly to the roots there is far less water lost due to evaporation, less tendency to over water, less risk of plant disease developing as a result of excess water pooling in the soil and collecting in the garden mulch. If you have trees or vine crops, you can install micro-spray heads, which spray water in small areas. Installing a drip irrigation system not only mimics Mother Nature but pampers your plants. Most gardens love it when they are watered gently and slowly.

Drip tape or tubing can leak or become plugged up, so you must also choose the depth carefully so it will not freeze and it won’t accidentally get cut.

You want a drip system that best fits your needs. Do you have plants that need to be germinated? Do you have plants that need the humidity? Or, will they do better if you use drip irrigation instead of a spray? Also do you live in an area where you have to save water? All of these must be taken in to consideration when deciding what type of irrigation you need.

Author: Bill Doane

Assuming that the soil has adequate drainage, the next most significant factor is the frequency by which water is applied. Light, sandy soils drain excellently, but retain water poorly. It follows that the intervals between each watering have to be relatively short. Conversely, heavy, clay soils possess good water retention properties but drain slowly. As the greater the length of time that the soil is saturated with water, the less air is available to the plants’ roots, watering intervals should be relatively wide. As we shall see with some of the following examples, it is often best to make those intervals as long as possible.

Plants that grow naturally in arid regions are often or not particularly sensitive to low oxygen percentages in the soil. Situations where the top soil layers are permanently moist are liable to cause roots to rot, or at the least, not to develop properly. Many fine ornamental trees and shrubs, such as Melaleuca, Eucalyptus, Callistemon, Leucophyllum , Olive and Cypress, belong to this category. In clay soils, watering once a month (sometimes less frequently) through the summer, is often sufficient for established plants, providing that enough water is applied so that it reaches down to at least 50 cm, (1.5 feet) preferably I meter. Frequent but deep soakings also play the crucial role of leaching excessive salts from the soil.

Most lawn varieties grown in hot, dry, summer climates are heat resistant species. They are not drought resistant however, and of course require regular irrigation. In heavy soils, the interval for established lawns can be over 2 weeks, although 1 week to 10 ten days is preferable for private gardens. The interval for sandy soils can be between 3-5 days. Delaying the watering involves virtually no risk to the mature, healthy lawn. On the contrary, not only does the gap allow air to be present in the soil, but it encourages the deep-rooting species like Bermuda grass, to grow into the sub soil. Such lawn types recover quickly from small doses of drought stress.

Herbal plants are with some exceptions largely of Mediterranean origin or grow naturally in similar habitats. Oregano, Sage, Artemisia, Rosemary and Lavender, to name but a few, all respond well to properly …#34; drained soil, and suffer from boggy, anaerobic conditions. As they do not need be watered as deeply as trees and shrubs, the intervals should be correspondingly shortened.

Herbaceous flowers, whether annual or perennial, have to be watered very frequently on the other hand. In very light soils, those with very small percentages of clay, watering might have to be as often as once a day, whereas in very heavy soils, it may be possible to stretch it out to 3-5 days between each watering.

You may well ask - “What should I do if my flowers are mixed up with the trees and shrubs?” The short answer is that you have to water according to the needs of that plant group that require water most urgently. The more involved answer though is that it is impossible to irrigate intelligently, if different plant groups with entirely different watering needs, are planted together and watered from the same irrigation line.

About the Author

My name is Jonathan Ya’akobi. I’ve been gardening in a professional capacity since 1984. I am the former head gardener of the Jerusalem Botanical Garden, but now concentrate on building gardens for private home owners. I also teach horticulture to students on training courses. I’d love to help you get the very best from your garden, so you’re welcome to visit me on http://www.dryclimategardening.com or contact me jonathan@dryclimategardening.com

The cardinal rule of garden irrigation is therefore to install separate lines for the different groups of plants that make up the garden. While sprinklers are used for lawn irrigation, drip irrigation is more suitable for the rest of the garden plants. Needless to say, both have to be separated from each other, to avoid them being operated together.

In addition, separate taps for drip irrigation should be installed for those groups of plants that have different watering requirements. The greater the separation, the more accurately one can calculate the quantities needed and fix the intervals between each watering. For example, in a hypothetical garden in Southern California, entirely independent lines would be installed for the shaded beds containing ferns and tropical fruit trees, the mass of water-conserving shrubs and landscaping trees, the herb garden planted in a bed of pebbles, and the annual flowers growing in pots.

Professional irrigation therefore has two principle sides. It aims to provide optimal growing conditions to the garden plants, while using as little water as possible. Does all this though have to be at the expense of the beauty of the garden? As it happens, grouping plants together that have similar water requirements also makes good design sense. In other words, plants that grow in similar habitats tend to look good together, while the opposite is also true. Here are some examples that clearly illustrate the point.

*Olive trees and date palms grow in radically different habitats, yet they are often planted together in Mediterranean gardens. Now ask yourself; do they go well together?

*I’ve seen the massively -leaved Philodendron “Beefy”, an archetypal tropical plant, planted next to the fine-leaved Pyracantha, a Mediterranean species. The look is totally incongruous. As one would expect, the tropical Philodendron requires an entirely different irrigation regime from that needed by Pyracantha.

*On the other hand, herbs like Rosemary and Lavender associate perfectly in visual terms with other arid and semi-arid plants like Junipers, Pistachios, Sumacs and Pomegranate. All can be grown on a similar and limited water regime, typified by deep, occasional soakings. In fact, it is not by chance that this is the case. All possess the small leaves typical of a climate where the plants reduce water loss by restricting the surface area of the organ (the leaf) through which water evaporates into the atmosphere.

Author: Jonathan Ya’akobi

Underground lawn sprinklers

Firstly open the tap to see which sprinklers if any are not working properly. Underground or pop-up sprinklers can sometimes sink somewhat in the ground. Adjust the height of the whole housing if necessary, even if that involves some digging to do so. Modern sprinkler heads have small filters inserted in the housing. Clean out each one. Three minutes work per unit can save a lot of frustration later, as part of the grass browns off in the summer, due to poor water coverage. It’s also important to check the state of the nozzles. They become worn over time, and should be replaced every 3-5 years.

Drip irrigation

Irrigation drippers tend to get blocked in time. Switch on to see which ones are not emitting water. If the drippers are pre-set in the pipe by the manufacturer, then insert a “button” dripper next to the blocked up units. To reduce blockages in the future, it is essential to flush out the lines at least once a year. After turning on the tap, simply open the end of the line and let the water flow for about 5 minutes or so. The life span of dripper lines is usually up to 10-15 years, as mineral deposits in the water eventually make the line inoperable. However, neglecting to periodically wash out the system will significantly reduce their operable life span. I’ve seen drippers block up after 3 or 4 years when this simple routine task is ignored.

The Irrigation head unit

A professional irrigation system will include a controller, or timer, filters and pressure regulators. Needless to say, wash out the filters thoroughly. A dirty filter reduces the water flow rate, resulting in reduced pressure to the sprinklers, and blockages in the dripper lines. The operating efficiency of the pressure regulators should also be checked. These are vital for ensuring that the drip system is operating at the prescribed dynamic pressure, which is something between 1-2 Bars for a home unit. You may need professional assistance in this, but don’t neglect the task, because high operating pressure can cause the connections to come away and even to burst. Replace batteries where necessary.

Finally, spray oil on all the metal parts of the unit. What a pain it is to try and unscrew a fitting attached to the wall, only to find the screws are totally rusted! As a very great comic actor and writer once said - “Silly little point but it does seem to matter!” I wonder if you know who that might have been.

About the Author

My name is Jonathan Ya’akobi. I’ve been gardening in a professional capacity since 1984. I am the former head gardener of the Jerusalem Botanical Garden, but now concentrate on building gardens for private home owners. I also teach horticulture to students on training courses. I’d love to share my knowledge and experience with you. So you’re welcome to visit me on http://www.dryclimategardening.com